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F.A.T by Freddie Residency @ Sharp’s * DunneFrankowski

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A cut above average..

A buzz cut. A neck shave. An espresso. Or, a sandwich!? Sharp’s can fix it for you. This is a relatively hip barber’s formerly located on Charlotte Street. Recently, it was seduced to a new *flagship* site on Windmill Street. The operation is split into two parts, as trend has it in Fitzrovia. The front bit is a premium coffee shop by consultancy coffee brand DunneFrankowski, known to those from the East (of London). The barbers are kept in the vintage grooming ground in the back. According to TOB, who has been a loyal Sharp’s customer since its Charlotte Street site, if you get a cut, you can get a free barista-grade coffee. (I can’t verify this as I have my haircut at an internationally corporate, expensive and soul-less hair salon elsewhere). The sandwich that I speak of is a fabulous two-month addition at Sharp’s * DunneFrankowski.

The barbers and the barista start work at 8am and finish at 6pm. F.A.T by Freddie – AKA that residency sandwich counter – only operates from 11.30am to 3pm. The menu, with a focus on toasted sandwiches (£4.5 for all) and sweet bits (£2-3), is concise, comforting, yet with sustained sparks of creativity. (Think, bourbon pickled chilli and ketchup by J Lo). Do note that this is a small operation and all sandwiches are meticulously hand-assembled and toasted per order. It takes time (5-10 min).

I have eaten at F.A.T twice. On my first visit, I had the pork and fennel meatball sandwich. Well stuffed. The meatballs, gently tucked between thick slices of white sourdough so to keep their shape and texture, were fragrant and moreish. The liberal spread of pesto did bring out herbal dimensions; slivers of pickled fennel contributed crunch; and the J Lo ketchup bound the elements with a good ratio of sweetness/acidity. The toasting was also done with care – crackling exterior, and steamy warmed-through filling. I likened the experience to eating freshly cooked food as opposed to just a sandwich. On my second visit, I opted for Stilton and Kimchi Sandwich (also £4.50). A kind of Korean via American via Britain taste. Here the Stilton is mixed with Cheddar. (The former for sharp, smelly deliciousness; the latter creamy, stringy gooey-ness). Chopped spring onions were also added before toasting. The taste was GOOD. The kimchi (made by Freddie herself) boast an uncompromising note of fermentation and heat. The shredded cabbage still retained bites. The cheese concoction not only helped mediate the heat but also layer pungency. Not for the faint-hearted.

I also landed on the rotating daily special of sweet corn cookie sandwich with ham and cheese. (Think two cookies sandwiching ham and cheese and there it all goes onto the toaster)!! The cookie had a mildly chewy texture. Not a strong corn-y taste. Nicely released as I munched my way through. The ham and cheese lent some saltiness to balance. That said, I would have found it too rich to finish on my own. (We shared the cookie sandwich).

F.A.T by Freddie is there until mid November.

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RATING 4/5

F.A.T by FREDDIE RESIDENCY @ SHARP’S * DUNNEFRANKOWSKI

8 Windmill Street
London
W1T 2JF

Tel. 020 7638 8688

www.fffaaattt.com


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